sitting in the seoul airport by the gate for the plane that will return me to the u.s., i look from side to side out the glass walls at the airplanes and it feels almost like we are all in a cloud...the heat and humidity combine with incheon's low hills to make the airport surrounded in a too-bright haze.
in some ways, my last few days in mongolia have felt like that...mostly pleasant, a little stressful, but somehow detached and obscured from "normal" life. i have sort of maybe meant to write, and there are still topics and experiences i wanted/want to share...but a new chapter begins today.
we'll see where it goes.
Wednesday, July 24, 2013
Wednesday, July 17, 2013
this time
This time next week, I will be on Korean Air making my way to the U.S. via the grand ole metropolis of Detroit
This time last week, I was home from set-up for Culture Naadam and not looking forward to waking up in only 4 hours...but hopeful that my visitor survey would go well and it'd get to see at least one horse race (mission accomplished)
This time twelve hours ago, I was conducting my final research interview and having a fascinating conversation about how to preserve and promote cultural diversity when it's ever-evolving and belongs first and foremost to its community.
This time in twelve hours, I will be in the office for my second-to-last day of work with my NGO, probably already thinking ahead to lunch at the French bakery.
This time (around my departure) two years ago, I was looking forward to a farewell dinner at veranda with a close friend
This time (around my departure) seven years ago, I had a farewell dinner at veranda with my field studies groupmates and a few friends, and our eyes and stomachs exceeded our remaining tugruks
This time (around my departure), I am looking forward to a farewell lunch with my friends and co-workers from the Arts Council of Mongolia, and I definitely still have enough tugruks (even if I had to pay for my own meal).
In this time and place, a lemon poppyseed cake is cooling as I relax on my gold-thread couch, illuminated by my laptop screen and an orange and purple chandelier. I have just discovered that I did not entirely escape getting sunburned during Naadam, but I have also decided that having the tips of your ears peel really isn't that painful and is kind of funny (tmi? sorry).
In this time and place, I am grateful for so many of the good times I have had, the memories I have made with the people I have met, and the lessons I have learned. It is time for this chapter to end, but not just yet :)
This time last week, I was home from set-up for Culture Naadam and not looking forward to waking up in only 4 hours...but hopeful that my visitor survey would go well and it'd get to see at least one horse race (mission accomplished)
This time twelve hours ago, I was conducting my final research interview and having a fascinating conversation about how to preserve and promote cultural diversity when it's ever-evolving and belongs first and foremost to its community.
This time in twelve hours, I will be in the office for my second-to-last day of work with my NGO, probably already thinking ahead to lunch at the French bakery.
This time (around my departure) two years ago, I was looking forward to a farewell dinner at veranda with a close friend
This time (around my departure) seven years ago, I had a farewell dinner at veranda with my field studies groupmates and a few friends, and our eyes and stomachs exceeded our remaining tugruks
This time (around my departure), I am looking forward to a farewell lunch with my friends and co-workers from the Arts Council of Mongolia, and I definitely still have enough tugruks (even if I had to pay for my own meal).
In this time and place, a lemon poppyseed cake is cooling as I relax on my gold-thread couch, illuminated by my laptop screen and an orange and purple chandelier. I have just discovered that I did not entirely escape getting sunburned during Naadam, but I have also decided that having the tips of your ears peel really isn't that painful and is kind of funny (tmi? sorry).
In this time and place, I am grateful for so many of the good times I have had, the memories I have made with the people I have met, and the lessons I have learned. It is time for this chapter to end, but not just yet :)
Saturday, July 13, 2013
A story lies behind every picture
So most of this blog's readership also knows me in real-life and are my facebook friends, so I know a lot of pictures appear in both places. It is, however, easier in blog form to give a little more context about the story behind certain pictures.
Three examples,
On the second day of Naadam and of our Cultural Festival, my co-worker pulls me over to the calligraphy tent and asks if I want my name written. Since the only money I had on me was small change to pay the restroom fees, I started to explain that I couldn't afford it. "No, no", she insists "For you there isn't a charge. Let's do it now before it gets busy, we'll get your handprint and I'll have him write whatever you want". I had the option to go big (two handprints!) or more modest, and I chose the one that will frame more nicely. She helped me get a good handprint and then had him write my name and "Culture Naadam 2013" for me. The stroke he is making the picture is the "Sa" of my name.
As she waves it dry, she tells me with a good frame it will look very nice in my house and she hopes that when I see it I will remember her. We haven't always had the best working relationship, so it meant a lot to me that she recognized that this particular sort of gift would mean the most to me and that she hunted me down before things too busy and it was still possible. A very nice memory and a beautiful gift.
Somewhat similarly, this next picture also shows me with a thoughtful present and special person.
I spent a lot of time in the felt art tent during the two days of Culture Naadam since one of my closest co-workers was stationed there and because to me it was the most interesting. During lulls in visitors and while I was taking a break from the heat and from asking for survey responses, Bayanduuran would always smile and show me what she was working on, occasionally let me try for myself. I am not a talented felt-artist at all, but I came to recognize the different steps of the process and really appreciate them. One particular slow time she offered me a seat and we talked in Mongolia about our graduate studies and how her PhD process is still stuck in the writing stages. We commiserated over the pressure to constantly be publishing articles and talked about the importance to doing what you enjoy in life. It was a really nice moment that was only possible because of the time I had invested in studying her language, and it was a real pleasure to get to know her a person and just not as an friendly artist. The second day I was starting to run out of surveys and the sun was even brighter and hotter, so I just rested in the tent and started to strike up conversations with some of the international visitors to help them understand the process they were seeing. It then become almost an expectation, she would gesture to me to give my short explanation or offer me water if a big group had just come through. I didn't mind and was a little pleased about being "adopted" as a helpful part of the felt art tent. At the end of the festival she presented me with this bracelet as gift, for being so hardworking and such a nice student. It was really a pleasure getting to know her and to learn from her, and I have another nice memory to take home.
Besides "working" the festival, I was able to just enjoy the cultural performances. There were a lot of neat elements, but one of the cutest was a group of child singers. I later learned that they are a professional band in their own right, and they are all beautiful singers and were very sweet.
Here's my picture from their performance:
And here is the song they were singing
The refrain "minii Mongol" describes how "my Mongolia" is the most beautiful place in the world. Out in countryside, with the big blue sky (munkh tenger) overheard, full of clouds, on a sunny Naadam day, it certainly feels so.
Three examples,
On the second day of Naadam and of our Cultural Festival, my co-worker pulls me over to the calligraphy tent and asks if I want my name written. Since the only money I had on me was small change to pay the restroom fees, I started to explain that I couldn't afford it. "No, no", she insists "For you there isn't a charge. Let's do it now before it gets busy, we'll get your handprint and I'll have him write whatever you want". I had the option to go big (two handprints!) or more modest, and I chose the one that will frame more nicely. She helped me get a good handprint and then had him write my name and "Culture Naadam 2013" for me. The stroke he is making the picture is the "Sa" of my name.
As she waves it dry, she tells me with a good frame it will look very nice in my house and she hopes that when I see it I will remember her. We haven't always had the best working relationship, so it meant a lot to me that she recognized that this particular sort of gift would mean the most to me and that she hunted me down before things too busy and it was still possible. A very nice memory and a beautiful gift.
Somewhat similarly, this next picture also shows me with a thoughtful present and special person.
I spent a lot of time in the felt art tent during the two days of Culture Naadam since one of my closest co-workers was stationed there and because to me it was the most interesting. During lulls in visitors and while I was taking a break from the heat and from asking for survey responses, Bayanduuran would always smile and show me what she was working on, occasionally let me try for myself. I am not a talented felt-artist at all, but I came to recognize the different steps of the process and really appreciate them. One particular slow time she offered me a seat and we talked in Mongolia about our graduate studies and how her PhD process is still stuck in the writing stages. We commiserated over the pressure to constantly be publishing articles and talked about the importance to doing what you enjoy in life. It was a really nice moment that was only possible because of the time I had invested in studying her language, and it was a real pleasure to get to know her a person and just not as an friendly artist. The second day I was starting to run out of surveys and the sun was even brighter and hotter, so I just rested in the tent and started to strike up conversations with some of the international visitors to help them understand the process they were seeing. It then become almost an expectation, she would gesture to me to give my short explanation or offer me water if a big group had just come through. I didn't mind and was a little pleased about being "adopted" as a helpful part of the felt art tent. At the end of the festival she presented me with this bracelet as gift, for being so hardworking and such a nice student. It was really a pleasure getting to know her and to learn from her, and I have another nice memory to take home.
Besides "working" the festival, I was able to just enjoy the cultural performances. There were a lot of neat elements, but one of the cutest was a group of child singers. I later learned that they are a professional band in their own right, and they are all beautiful singers and were very sweet.
Here's my picture from their performance:
And here is the song they were singing
The refrain "minii Mongol" describes how "my Mongolia" is the most beautiful place in the world. Out in countryside, with the big blue sky (munkh tenger) overheard, full of clouds, on a sunny Naadam day, it certainly feels so.
Tuesday, July 9, 2013
Culture Naadam
It's that crazy time of summer in Mongolia- Naadam time! Naadam is the national festival that celebrates Mongolia's three manly sports: wrestling, horse racing, and archery.
In 2007 I went to the opening ceremony and got to see the national wrestling competition in person, which was cool but chaotic and long (people compete all over countryside before national Naadam to decide their rankings, and then once the national competition starts they all wrestle...at once.)
In 2011 I was content to watch wrestling on TV and avoid the crowds.
And now in 2013, thanks to my Arts Council connections, I will be helping out with Culture Naadam
Located out by the horse races, Culture Naadam is a big circle complex with tent stations showcasing Mongolian traditional dress, calligraphy, felt-making, archery, etc. plus cultural performances throughout the day, face-painting, and giant models of traditional Mongolian symbols (like decorated saddles, boots, etc.)
It's going to be a couple of long, exhausting days (on thursday we leave at 5 am to head out to the site!), but it should be an interesting experience. And who knows, I might even get some more good research data.
Saikhan naadaarai!
In 2007 I went to the opening ceremony and got to see the national wrestling competition in person, which was cool but chaotic and long (people compete all over countryside before national Naadam to decide their rankings, and then once the national competition starts they all wrestle...at once.)
In 2011 I was content to watch wrestling on TV and avoid the crowds.
And now in 2013, thanks to my Arts Council connections, I will be helping out with Culture Naadam
Located out by the horse races, Culture Naadam is a big circle complex with tent stations showcasing Mongolian traditional dress, calligraphy, felt-making, archery, etc. plus cultural performances throughout the day, face-painting, and giant models of traditional Mongolian symbols (like decorated saddles, boots, etc.)
It's going to be a couple of long, exhausting days (on thursday we leave at 5 am to head out to the site!), but it should be an interesting experience. And who knows, I might even get some more good research data.
Saikhan naadaarai!
Monday, July 8, 2013
The floor is lava
It has been a rather rainy summer here in UB. Normally I don't mind the rain and even prefer it to cloudless, blazing days. However, when Ulaanbaatar was built they did not see the need for drainage ditches. So when it rains (especially if it rains on and off all day), huge puddles form with nowhere to go but up (a.k.a evaporate...eventually). Suddenly the uneven quirks of UB's pavement become a godsend...provided there are enough high areas spaced often enough to jump to. Especially in summer no one wants to wear rain boots, so it becomes a bizarre ballet of leaping and last-minute detours, trying to navigate the safest, driest path.
A few times I have wanted to tell my co-workers about the children's game "the floor is lava", but I have no idea what the word for lava or volcano is...i guess i could say fire from the fire mountain? Maybe next time it rains, which will probably be all too soon, I'll try that out.
For now, I'm glad to be inside and have dry feet.
A few times I have wanted to tell my co-workers about the children's game "the floor is lava", but I have no idea what the word for lava or volcano is...i guess i could say fire from the fire mountain? Maybe next time it rains, which will probably be all too soon, I'll try that out.
For now, I'm glad to be inside and have dry feet.
Saturday, July 6, 2013
Happy Belated 4th!
While the American expat community in Mongolia is fairly sizeable, it's not very organized. Nevertheless, I participated in two Fourth of July events this summer.
On the 4th itself, I had a group of friends over for burritos (beans, yellow rice, tomatoes with chiles, bell peppers) and apple crisp (easier than apple pie, goes nicely with some russian ice cream). It was a fun time, interesting mix of conversations as always...and again, just like the dinner party I held for my co-workers, I meant to take a picture but forgot.
On the 5th, the Fulbright community had organized a fundraiser for disabled people and a short concert (including a medley of Michael Jackson hits, performed by members of the state philharmonic). I hadn't actually planned on attending so was underdressed a bit in jeans and sneakers, but I got to meet up with a few people, including some I hadn't seen in about 6 years. The person I was most excited to spend time with though was Ganaa, the 2007-2008 FLTA to Pittsburgh who so graciously translated all of my initial museum work.
Here's a group shot of Hongorzul (honorary advisor to the Pitt clan), Allison (my field leader back in the day), Ganaa, me, and another FLTA who came after I had graduated. Wonderful people all.
Tomorrow I have lunch with Hongorzul and Allison and then dinner with my museum friends. Should be quite the busy day!!
I've trial packed a few things and got my exit stamp on passport, the next two weeks will go by in a blur I know. Will try to keep updating til the end.
On the 4th itself, I had a group of friends over for burritos (beans, yellow rice, tomatoes with chiles, bell peppers) and apple crisp (easier than apple pie, goes nicely with some russian ice cream). It was a fun time, interesting mix of conversations as always...and again, just like the dinner party I held for my co-workers, I meant to take a picture but forgot.
On the 5th, the Fulbright community had organized a fundraiser for disabled people and a short concert (including a medley of Michael Jackson hits, performed by members of the state philharmonic). I hadn't actually planned on attending so was underdressed a bit in jeans and sneakers, but I got to meet up with a few people, including some I hadn't seen in about 6 years. The person I was most excited to spend time with though was Ganaa, the 2007-2008 FLTA to Pittsburgh who so graciously translated all of my initial museum work.
Here's a group shot of Hongorzul (honorary advisor to the Pitt clan), Allison (my field leader back in the day), Ganaa, me, and another FLTA who came after I had graduated. Wonderful people all.
Tomorrow I have lunch with Hongorzul and Allison and then dinner with my museum friends. Should be quite the busy day!!
I've trial packed a few things and got my exit stamp on passport, the next two weeks will go by in a blur I know. Will try to keep updating til the end.
Wednesday, July 3, 2013
inner angst machine
this blog hasn't been particularly research-focused for three reasons, 1) research is still on-going and fluid, 2) it's probably not super interesting to be super technical with you all, 3) i'm already thinking and worrying about stuff enough.
but for a brief glimpse into the mind of the researcher/inner sixteen year old girl, two poems:
if i had but known...
20 pages, back and front
black and white
checked and unchecked
it would have been so easy
for so many hours
if i had dared
had pushed
if she had remembered
ah, but for a printer
a copier
a paper
a response
human errors, narrow opportunities
raindrops chase each other across the window
fields unfurl before us- green to gold and brown
for a moment it is tempting
to compare with drives in the midwest
the similar scene of many childhood trips
watching water chase and envelope itself
but then we reach a village and all is strange again
the songs
the petrol stations
red, green, pink roofs
gers, stove pipes, fences, herds
хөтөл
(passage)
3 weeks exactly left! Tomorrow I shall attempt to get my exit stamp, and on Sunday I'm going borrow a friend's vacuum to trial pack most of my clothes and winter coat. I'll try to take some full-on winter gear shots before it goes into the duffel bag.
Until next time, an early Happy 4th of July!
but for a brief glimpse into the mind of the researcher/inner sixteen year old girl, two poems:
if i had but known...
20 pages, back and front
black and white
checked and unchecked
it would have been so easy
for so many hours
if i had dared
had pushed
if she had remembered
ah, but for a printer
a copier
a paper
a response
human errors, narrow opportunities
raindrops chase each other across the window
fields unfurl before us- green to gold and brown
for a moment it is tempting
to compare with drives in the midwest
the similar scene of many childhood trips
watching water chase and envelope itself
but then we reach a village and all is strange again
the songs
the petrol stations
red, green, pink roofs
gers, stove pipes, fences, herds
хөтөл
(passage)
3 weeks exactly left! Tomorrow I shall attempt to get my exit stamp, and on Sunday I'm going borrow a friend's vacuum to trial pack most of my clothes and winter coat. I'll try to take some full-on winter gear shots before it goes into the duffel bag.
Until next time, an early Happy 4th of July!
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